01 What Sidemen is
Sidemen is a small valley town in Karangasem regency, roughly an hour's drive from Ubud and 90 minutes from the airport. It's frequently described as "what Ubud was 20 years ago" — a somewhat tired cliché, but not entirely wrong. The rice terraces are spectacular, Mount Agung dominates the northern skyline on clear days, traditional endek weaving (Bali's ikat fabric tradition) is still practised in the villages, and the tourist infrastructure is minimal enough that it still feels like a real place rather than a curated experience.
02 The rice terraces and landscape
The valley floor and slopes around Sidemen are densely cultivated with rice terraces — the kind of layered green landscape that defines Bali's highland interior. Unlike Tegalalang (which has admission charges, selfie swings and heavy foot traffic), the Sidemen terraces are largely undeveloped and accessible via a network of walking paths through active farming land.
The valley walk — a 2–3 hour circuit from the village centre through terraces, along irrigation channels and back through smaller hamlets — is one of the best easy hikes on the island and requires no guide or paid entry. Early morning before 9am gives the best light and the coolest air.
03 Weaving and crafts
Several family workshops in Sidemen produce endek — Bali's traditional hand-woven fabric with geometric patterns — and geringsing, the rare double-ikat cloth made only in nearby Tenganan village. Most workshops welcome visitors and allow you to watch the process; buying directly supports the weavers without a middleman. Prices for quality pieces are higher than market souvenirs but represent genuine craft.
04 Staying in Sidemen
A handful of small guesthouses and boutique properties operate in the valley — most with rice terrace or Agung views from their breakfast decks. Prices are noticeably lower than Ubud for comparable quality. Two to three nights is ideal; one night is possible but Sidemen rewards people who slow down enough to actually walk the valley.
05 Getting there
Sidemen is most easily reached by private driver from Ubud (around 60 minutes, IDR 200,000–300,000) or as part of an East Bali circuit that includes Besakih and Candidasa. The road in involves some narrow stretches; scooter hire from Sidemen itself is available for exploring the surrounding area. See our getting around guide.